Day 11: Yes, More Vikings . . . Don't Make Me Get Out My Battle Axe

RANDOMOSITIES

Vikings didn't fool around, as evidenced by the cracked skulls I saw today.

Though English people are friendly, they sure don't give way on the sidewalk.

People around here walk everywhere, way different than at home.

Pet Peeve #57: When I visit a historical site and am told no picture-taking is allowed...only to find out at the end of the tour there happens to be a $10 picture book for sale. Yeah, antiquity must be preserved, but I don't think an iPhone is going to destroy a piece of furniture no matter how old it is.

York is the birthplace of 3 English chocolate companies: Cadbury, Terrys and Rowntrees.

The cute little old lady guide at the Fairfax House completely surprised me when she explained that Georgian-era ladies often went commando. What the what?! How did that sweet little senior know what commando means?!

Whatever Chicken 65 is, it's fantastic stuff. Google a recipe. I will when I get home.

TIMELINE

9:30 Leave to tour Jorvik Viking Centre (grab some breakfast on the way).

10-noon Read every possible placard in the Viking centre.

Noon-2:00 Tour the Fairfax House, a Georgian era home.

2-2:45 Eat some fantastic Indian fusion lunch.

2:45-6:45 Walk the entire city, every nook and cranny, from the castle museum to York Minster, and all around the walls (except for one little section because it was dusk and they were closing it).

7:00 Return back to our lodging and collapse with a bottle of Ampleforth Abbey Cider, a traditional North Yorkshire Cider. My dogs are barking.

THOUGHTS

Today we left behind the car and walked. And walked. Oh yeah, did I mention walked? Nine freaking hours. Not even exaggerating, and not counting the 45 minutes we sat down for lunch. Good thing I bought those new Teva hiking shoes for this adventure. Not only comfortable, but waterproof . . . though today rain wasn't an issue. A single sunbeam climbing in through the window woke me up. 

If you're not seriously into Vikings, Jorvik Viking Centre probably isn't worth your money. Then again, if you are into Vikings, it's a somewhat touristy-type attraction the way it's set up, complete with a ride that takes you through the reinvented streets of Jorvik. I was disappointed I couldn't take pictures (not allowed) but pleased to see so many archeological remains on display. The skeletons with the slices in the ribs and femurs, skulls cracked like walnuts, shaved off shoulder bones, and hacked spines were sobering. 

I learned a ton of stuff at the Fairfax Townhome about Georgian-era life. Don't worry. I won't make you sit in on a two hour lecture. Here are a few highlights:

- Silverware was placed on the table facing downward so that the maker's mark or family crest could be seen stamped on the back as a matter of prestige. Big show-offs.

- One of their delicacies was baby eels served in a mound of gelatin. Eew! Looked like something that came out of my dog when she had worms. Sorry for the visual.

- Tea was shipped from China in porcelain bowls, teapots, figurines, yada-yada, to protect the tea from moisture and/or rats or whatever else might damage it. The tea was super expensive. The beautiful china not so much. Today that's flip-flopped and the tea is the cheap product whereas the old china is expensive.

Beeswax candles were used in public rooms (like the sitting room or dining room) because they didn't smoke. Other rooms used tallow.